We already introduced the new Vacheron Constantin Dual Time, which was shown at SIHH this year as part of their popular ‘Overseas’ collection. Another watch from this collection that really stands out is the Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin with a slender 4.05 mm movement powering a perpetual calendar and moon-phase indication. Take a close look to see its true beauty – slim, complicated, pink gold paired with a rich blue and designed with an adorable open caseback revealing a 22 carats oscillating weight decorated with a wind rose. For us one of the most appealing caseback designs around.
The first Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin was actually already introduced in 2016 but with a white gold case and three different straps. This years version comes with a pink gold case and only two straps – both in blue, leather and rubber. The missing strap from the 2016 version was made from white gold just like its case, which obviously had a major impact on the price.
Besides the new case material and strap reduction all details are pretty much identically. It is also equipped with the same in-house calibre 1120 QP/1 (QP stands for Quantième Perpetual), which was developed by Vacheron Constantin but made by Audemars Piguet. However this movement still today remains the thinnest full-rotor automatic movement in the world so the there is absolutely no reason to change it. It was first produced in the 1960s and keeps up this record until today. There are thinner movements, but not full-rotor.
The Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin measures a comfortable 8.1 mm slim case and houses an interesting calendar mechanism. Looking into the dial details you can spot that on the subdial for the months only every third month is listed. The months, which are not named are indicated by dial markers. Basically Vacheron Constantin wanted to showcase all 48 month to include the Leap Year circle on one subdial. But trying to squeeze all 48 months names onto one small circle would just lead to a complete chaos and illegibility. So this is a tricky and elegant way to have the unconventionally 48 months rhythm at a glance. To underline its precision, the perpetual calendar needs no correction until the year 2100.
The 2018 version of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin comes with a Mississippiensis alligator strap or a blue rubber strap. It has a 40 hour power reserve and its 18 carats 5N pink gold case measures 41.5 mm in diameter.